Extreme Makeover-Japanese Haircut Edition

Only in Kagoshima can you ask yourself, "Brian Freeman- Sensei are you up for something a little different this evening?" Earlier in the week I had spotted a funky little hair salon in Tenmokan called Hair, Make and Earth. Talk about doing something different have you ever tried to get a haircut in a foreign country where they speak no English? It is amazing what pictures in a magazine and body language can communicate. I felt like a celebrity. The ladies at the reception desk and the manager kept bringing me water and candy. I had my book sack and the employees tried to take it from me. I was confused. Here's the scoop, there are personal lockers in Japanese businesses and when you patronize the business you can lock up your personal belongings and keep the key with you until you have finished your business. So my book bag got locked up! I was assigned one of the best hairstylist in the salon. The lady at the reception desk gave me a thumbs up and said with a smile, "Very good!" Good indeed. He trimmed my hair with a razor for about 90 minutes. He was very meticulous with each strand. The whole while other stylists and patrons stopped by his booth to capture a glimpse of the daring American getting his hair cut. When the stylist finished I had a "Japanese Rock Star" hairstyle and it only cost 2,100 yen, that's 21 American dollars. This outing on my own is one of my most unforgettable experiences I had in Japan. Oops, I did forget my locked away book bag and had to return a few minutes later to reclaim it.

Tagami Elementary is genki (cheerful)!

Our final stop on the educational tour was Tagami Elementary School. Fluffy white bunnies, waddling ducks, multi-colored flowers and bright eyed Japanese children dressed in white and navy uniforms and wearing bashful smiles greeted us on campus. We arrived before the students and this time we clapped and cheered for the students as they walked to school in small groups. There was a group leader who carried a school sign as they crossed the street.

There was time before school started for a quick game of dodge ball. Let me tell you, this "Sumo Wrestler" was an easy target and I got knocked with the dodge ball more than once. But it was loads of fun playing with the students and making them laugh. It reminded me of being at home with my kindergarteners.

The school bell rang and the students sashayed into the building. The front of the school and the courtyard had dozens of blossoming flowers in a rainbow of eye-catching colors. Once again we did the shoe/slipper exchange ritual. We were escorted to a conference room where we received greetings from the Principal and other officials. The principal is retiring at the end of school because he has reached the mandatory retirement age. This year is a bittersweet one for him and the faculty. He shared with us the history of the school and how it is a community school and thus has much parental involvement.

Then it was time to observe the classes. In the hallways, there were Origami displays and projects made from recycled items that caught my eye. The artistic talents of these students are certainly being fostered at an early age. In home economics, boys and girls were using a sewing machine to make aprons. They measured and cut with the precision of Martha Stewart.

Classes were taught using the direct instruction method by the teacher. Students were either actively listening or using manipulatives. Many classes used workbooks. Following the observation period, we returned to the conference room where staff members shared with us the research and educational methods they use. Many of the strategies were similar to those being used in American school systems.

Only in Kagoshima can you help second graders "thresh the grain". The students had planted and tended to rice in a nearby field. The rice plants had been harvested earlier in the week. We did not have to be directed where to go to help the students we simply looked out the window to discover a vibrant blue sea of children busily working with rice plants. The Japanese teachers had laid out a large blue tarp that reflected the beaming sunlight. Students wore hats to block the pounding sunrays. I had to borrow one of the hats for a picture. It was a Kodak moment that I couldn't pass up. All of the American educators teamed up with a second grader and used a chopstick like instrument to force the rice grains of the plant. The grains were placed in a cup for safekeeping. The students will cook and eat the rice at a later date. We couldn't thresh the grains fast enough for the youngsters. Many would take our hands and show us how to do it quicker. We even got a couple of thumbs-up! But I did not bring any rice home.

Upon returning to the conference room, a student from each homeroom came to escort us back to their classroom for lunch. I threshed a lot of grain and had certainly worked up an appetite. It might be a lucky guess but something told me we were having rice. My feet were hurting as well. Walking around in slippers all day is hard work. No pun intended.

My assignment was Grade 2, Class 3. It was a child-centered classroom full of enthusiastic students. The majority of the students knew some English words. About six of the second graders were dressed in cafeteria worker uniforms, complete with mask, hat and snap buttoned smock. The students helped serve lunch. The menu included soup with baby quail eggs, mixed vegetables and bread. What no rice? It was a tasty lunch but I did not gamble on the quail eggs so I folded again.

After lunch, the elementary students followed the same routine as the Jr. High students. At the end of the meal they cleaned their trays, bowls and utensils, used the restroom and brushed their teeth. Following lunch was recess time. The students changed clothes and went to the playground. Again all activities were done with little adult supervision.

Buckets of water, brushes, rags brooms and protective facemasks indicated to me it was time for the cleaning of the school. All of the students eagerly pitched in to help keep their campus clean. The students helped clean the grounds and flowers. They even helped to care for the animal homes that housed white furry rabbits and brown speckled ducks. It was obvious that cleaning the school comes second nature. They are trained at an early age to be clean, helpful and respectful of their environment whether at home or school.

Only at Tagami Elementary can you hear an elementary brass band play that sounds so professional they could compete with much older students. The music teacher who displayed an obvious love for her profession and children encouraged them. We strolled to the exit conference with the sweet sounds of the brass band echoing behind us. We reviewed the day���s events and left knowing this visit was certainly genki (cheerful), educational and worthwhile

Goryukyu Senior High School

Goryukyu Senior High School was next on the agenda for Day 2 of school visits. We were welcomed to campus by school officials and treated to a warm cup of green tea. Goryukyu Senior High is a Research School. It is in the second year of integrating Junior High students with Senior High students.

The school was in testing mode and the students were busily preparing for formal examinations. I was impressed that we saw a typical high school day. The majority of the teachers taught using direct instruction from the national curriculum. Again, the students were very orderly, courteous and attentive. We had the opportunity to visit Grades 1 (10th), 2 (11th) and 3 (12th). As we traveled the hallways we stopped to look at the numerous attractive bulletin boards that displayed student work, art and calligraphy.

One of the highlights included observing Judo and Kendo practice. I learned that in Judo, the aim is training the body and spirit. The literal translation of Judo is "the gentle way": The softness of Judo techniques is more important than stamina. Kendo practice gave us the opportunity to participate in the art of Japanese fencing. Luckily, the students were well protected and only used bamboo swords. Each member of the American delegation had the opportunity to practice the Kendo "yell" and then swing the sword. The aim was to hit the well-guarded stomach area of the student. By the way, Kendo means "the way of the sword".

Lunch was served in the cafeteria. We had the opportunity to choose from a menu. I opted for Chicken Cutlet with a tangy oriental sauce. Of course, we had rice, too. The teenagers were very interested in quizzing us about Americana. We were asked things about sports. A common question we were asked, "Are the Red Soxs your favorite baseball team?" We were asked if we like President Bush, McDonald's or rap music. Following lunch we met with key faculty members and observed after school activities. The school day ends somewhere between 4 and 4:30 pm. Then the students participate in after school clubs, sports, and band or art programs. Many students do not leave school until after 6 pm. We learned that following regular school activities many families send their children to "crammy" schools. This is a paid after school tutorial class held off campus to help students become better prepared for college entrance examinations.

Before we departed the campus we had a guided tour of the historic Shimazu family cemetery built behind the campus. Some of the graves dated back 1,000 years. Each gravesite is adorned with stone lanterns. The more stone lanterns that adorn the graves the more influential and powerful that particular member of the Shimazu family were during their reign. The windows of the school were adorned with High School students waving farewell as we headed towards the chartered bus. We hoped in some small way we had used our presence to influence these teenagers to have a positive image of Americans just as much as we had formed positive images of Japanese cultures in our minds.

Picture Perfect

Indescribable...was Shiroyama (castle mountain). I united with my fellow educators as we made a brisk hike up a winding trail surrounded by sizeable trees, bottle green grass and leafy shrubs. Finally we reached a breathtaking lookout point. It was here that you could see Mt. Sakurajima in all it's glory and realize the true magnitude of the metropolitan area. Picture taking here was simply postcard perfect. It was a crystal clear day and you could see the city skyline for miles. It is here where Mother Nature is at her best that Saigo Takmori committed ritual suicide in 1877.

Things seem to get better and better in Kagoshima. We walked back down the hiking trail in awe. Swiftly, we loaded the chartered bus again and headed to the historic home of the 19th Satsuma Lord to visit his traditional summer villa and tour his glorious garden called, Senganen or Isoteien. This site is a nationally registered scenic beauty and cultural site in Japan. We entered through an ornate and detailed gate that opened to the luscious and manicured grounds. One of the first things that caught my eye was the 150-pound iron cannon and The Tsurugane Shrine, which has more than an 800-year of history with the Shimadzu family.

Senganen is a Japanese style landscape garden, which is beautifully located at the foot of a wooded hill along the coast and uses Mt. Sakurajima as "borrowed scenery". On the grounds is the first gaslight built in Japan. It is in the form of a crane-shaped stone lantern.

This historic villa and home belonged to the Shimazu, the family that ruled Kagoshima for almost 700 years until the end of Japan's feudal age in 1868. We were taken aback as we had the opportunity to tour this historic home. It was simply decorated but was filled with exquisite artwork and ornamental furniture. The formal dining room was adorned with the sparkling Satsuma cut glass. After the tour, we were escorted to the Shuseiso (Tea House) where we participated in a traditional tea ceremony. We had freshly brewed green tea and a sweet snack.

On the Senganen premise is the famous Satsuma Kiriko~The Sengan-en Gallery. This is the moment I had been waiting for, the opportunity to purchase a piece of Satsuma cut glass. I was surprised at how much the glass weighed and how the glass glistened in the sunlight. I was equally surprised by the price of even small pieces of glass. I bit the bullet and purchased a yellow piece of Satsuma glass. I will definitely treasure this keepsake forever or at least until my Visa bill comes.

One of the main differences I noticed early on when comparing the Toyko and Kagoshima was that Tokyo was more westernized with bilingual signs, menus and maps but Kagoshima was totally Japanese. This particular change was challenging but rewarding as well.

We headed to Dolphin Port for dinner. I knew the Colonel and rice was off the list tonight. Therefore, we ate at a local restaurant (I couldn't read the name or menu). It was a type of Japanese Barbecue establishment. Basically, they brought you raw meat and you cooked it on a small heated barbecue pit located in the center of the table. The smoke rose through a vent attached from the ceiling. It brought a new meaning to the term dining out. Nevertheless, it was fun playing Chef Boyardee!

Kagoshima University and More!

Rise and shine! Breakfast included rice and seaweed. Come on, I went with the rice. We were off to visit the celebrated Kagoshima University (KU) where we toured the campus and it's historical museum. The University began in 1773 and has grown into one of Japan's largest and most prestigious universities. It is comprised of eight faculties and ten graduate schools with approximately 10,000 undergraduate students and 2,000 graduate students. There are approximately 2,300 faculty and staff members at the university. Interestingly, there are more male than female undergraduate and graduate students enrolled at KU. It is interesting to note that the academic year runs from April 1 to March 31. First semester is April 1 to September 30 and second semester is October 1-March 31.

University President Yoshida Hiroli and other dignitaries met with our delegation. Happily, we had an informal discussion with undergraduate and graduate students as well as college professors. The topic of discussion was educational trends and the teaching profession in general. It was intriguing to learn that Kagoshima University is seeking new ways to encourage practicing teachers to earn a graduate degree in education as well as ways to improve the employment rate of graduating teachers which is only 30 percent.

Following a scrumptious buffet styled lunch (rice again) at our host hotel we made a courtesy visit to Kagoshima Town Hall to hear greetings from the Deputy Mayor of Kagoshima and the Superintendent of Kagoshima City Board of Education. A few interesting facts we learned were that the crime rate is low and the cost of living is much lower than in Tokyo. It was fascinating to learn that teachers are assigned to schools for 5 to 7 year teaching terms and then they are arbitrarily transferred to another school in the Kagoshima prefecture/state. Teachers have no input into their geographical assignments. Every teacher must teach on one of the islands’ schools as well. I learned that only 30 percent of teachers in Japan are female. At the conclusion of the meeting, each official personally gave all 20 educators a business card and wished us a pleasant stay in Kagoshima. As we strolled to our bus, we passed the mailman on a bright red scooter type motorcycle. He wore a uniform, helmet and carried a mailbag. He was traveling very fast. I thought to myself, “I hope my postcards make it home!”

Ishiki Jr. High-A "Peaceful" Welcome!

I could hardly wait to pack my slippers because our first school visit was to Ishiki Junior High School (Grades 7-9). In Japan's Junior High setting-Grade 1 is 7th grade, Grade 2 is 8th grade and Grade 3 is 9th grade. I have been an elementary teacher for 15 year so I was anxious to spend the day at a Junior High School.

A VIP welcome was given to us at Ishiki Jr. High. We heard the students cheering long before we saw them. Their school band was playing as our bus approached. Over 600 students were lined up in front of the building cheering for us in English. The students eagerly gave us the "peace" hand symbol as we passed. Their school band played music and the American flag joined the Japanese flag in waving a friendly hello to us as we approached. It is a moment I will never forget. It set the tone for the entire day. As you entered the school you placed your shoes in a cubby. Then you must don your own slippers or complimentary slippers provided by the school. I had already been told I had Sumo Wrestler feet so I decided to pack my own slippers.
Here���s a little slipper etiquette. When you enter the restroom you must take off your own slippers and leave them on a platform and put on a pair of rubbery bathroom slippers. As you exit, you must remember to change back into your own slippers because walking in the hall with bathroom slippers is a big no-no!

The American delegation had a brief meeting with the principal and Student Council President. The principal explained to us about the history of the school. We then had free reign to observe classrooms. Observing the students, I noticed they were very attentive and respectful of their teachers and took great pride in their penmanship.

Much to my dismay there was only one computer lab and no computers or televisions in any classrooms. As I toured the school, I realized I had stereotyped Japanese schools. I had the opinion that they would be very modern with advanced technology. Generally, Japanese students outscore American students on standardized tests; therefore I had the misconception that the school environment must be better. What I discovered was that their buildings were older and the students had well-used equipment, desks and textbooks. In other words, it was very similar to the American public schools I have visited.

Back at the conference room, two students from each homeroom class carried a student made poster that had each of the 20 American educators names on it. We then paired up with the appropriate delegates; they escorted us to the gym for a special program. The students were eager to introduce themselves in English and practice their conversational skills with us as we strolled to the gym.

The students had practiced a special program for three weeks. The students were courteous and orderly during the program. They sat on the floor. When the teacher called attention for the program to begin, you could have heard a pin drop. The program consisted of a short skit, an archery demonstration, karate and judo exhibitions, and a speech recited in English. An out of the ordinary moment occurred for me when the school band played the Japanese National Anthem followed by The Star Spangled Banner. All the American educators rose with hand over heart and sang along. That was a spine-tingling moment for me. It is hard to explain but being thousands of miles away from home and have Japanese Junior High students��� play your National Anthem is simply a nostalgic goose bump moment.

Students swarmed around us at the end of the program and worked in cooperative teams to teach the Americans how to do origami (art of paper folding) and calligraphy. The students enjoyed being teachers and all the American educators definitely enjoyed being learners. I must admit I am better at calligraphy than folding paper. Do you know how hard it is to make a paper crane out of a small square?

Our student delegates escorted us back to their homerooms where their classmates were all eager to talk to us in English. The students had definitely practiced their conversational skills. I was impressed with their knowledge and use of the English language. It was time for lunch. But we did not head to the cafeteria. The food was brought to us. The students served themselves: soup, rice, vegetables and a sandwich. They ate at their desks and at the end of the meal they cleaned their trays, bowls and utensils. Then they went to the restroom and brushed their teeth. Recess time followed lunch. The students changed clothes and went to the playground. I was amazed that almost all of their activities took place with little "teacher supervision." It is not the school building or materials that are better, it seems to be the culture in Japan that teaches students to be responsible for the things they use and for their own actions. The education system is a different environment in Japan. One teacher stated that discipline is the parent's job and belongs at home.

To my amazement after recess students engage in a ritual known as cleaning their schools. Japanese schools do not have custodians per say. Each day students take responsibility for cleaning their school. I must add they do a pretty good job of it, too. Just imagine 600 Jr. High School students cleaning the school at the same time without any horseplay or water fights. You would have to see it to believe it!

The American and Japanese teachers had a joint teacher's meeting to discuss their pivotal role in the education system and issues. We learned from each other during the conversations and realized we have many of the same issues and commonalities. As we left Ishiki Junior High School the student body once again formed two rows and wished us a loud and clear goodbye in English and shared one last "Peace" sign.

Lady Luck and The Gambler

I could not resist the temptation of playing Pachinko even though I did not know how to play. My partner in crime Leslie agreed to go. I would play and she would watch! The Pachinko Parlor was a madhouse. There were excited people everywhere and lots of noises and bells. I grabbed a seat beside a kind Japanese lady who had five baskets of little silver balls. I figured either I would have beginners luck or Lady Luck sitting next to me would take pity on a poor American and share some of her winnings with me. Well, I was wrong she didn’t share any of her winnings. However, the kind Japanese lady did try to teach me how to play by pointing to the target where the silver balls needed to land. She even stuck one of her personal coins into the machine to help me keep my aim on target. Before I knew it I had lost 2,000 yen (don't worry that is only 20 US dollars!) My momma didn't raise a gambler. So I called it quits. Despite her kind efforts, sometimes you've got to know when to hold them and sometimes you have got to know when to fold them. I folded!