Goryukyu Senior High School

Goryukyu Senior High School was next on the agenda for Day 2 of school visits. We were welcomed to campus by school officials and treated to a warm cup of green tea. Goryukyu Senior High is a Research School. It is in the second year of integrating Junior High students with Senior High students.

The school was in testing mode and the students were busily preparing for formal examinations. I was impressed that we saw a typical high school day. The majority of the teachers taught using direct instruction from the national curriculum. Again, the students were very orderly, courteous and attentive. We had the opportunity to visit Grades 1 (10th), 2 (11th) and 3 (12th). As we traveled the hallways we stopped to look at the numerous attractive bulletin boards that displayed student work, art and calligraphy.

One of the highlights included observing Judo and Kendo practice. I learned that in Judo, the aim is training the body and spirit. The literal translation of Judo is "the gentle way": The softness of Judo techniques is more important than stamina. Kendo practice gave us the opportunity to participate in the art of Japanese fencing. Luckily, the students were well protected and only used bamboo swords. Each member of the American delegation had the opportunity to practice the Kendo "yell" and then swing the sword. The aim was to hit the well-guarded stomach area of the student. By the way, Kendo means "the way of the sword".

Lunch was served in the cafeteria. We had the opportunity to choose from a menu. I opted for Chicken Cutlet with a tangy oriental sauce. Of course, we had rice, too. The teenagers were very interested in quizzing us about Americana. We were asked things about sports. A common question we were asked, "Are the Red Soxs your favorite baseball team?" We were asked if we like President Bush, McDonald's or rap music. Following lunch we met with key faculty members and observed after school activities. The school day ends somewhere between 4 and 4:30 pm. Then the students participate in after school clubs, sports, and band or art programs. Many students do not leave school until after 6 pm. We learned that following regular school activities many families send their children to "crammy" schools. This is a paid after school tutorial class held off campus to help students become better prepared for college entrance examinations.

Before we departed the campus we had a guided tour of the historic Shimazu family cemetery built behind the campus. Some of the graves dated back 1,000 years. Each gravesite is adorned with stone lanterns. The more stone lanterns that adorn the graves the more influential and powerful that particular member of the Shimazu family were during their reign. The windows of the school were adorned with High School students waving farewell as we headed towards the chartered bus. We hoped in some small way we had used our presence to influence these teenagers to have a positive image of Americans just as much as we had formed positive images of Japanese cultures in our minds.

Picture Perfect

Indescribable...was Shiroyama (castle mountain). I united with my fellow educators as we made a brisk hike up a winding trail surrounded by sizeable trees, bottle green grass and leafy shrubs. Finally we reached a breathtaking lookout point. It was here that you could see Mt. Sakurajima in all it's glory and realize the true magnitude of the metropolitan area. Picture taking here was simply postcard perfect. It was a crystal clear day and you could see the city skyline for miles. It is here where Mother Nature is at her best that Saigo Takmori committed ritual suicide in 1877.

Things seem to get better and better in Kagoshima. We walked back down the hiking trail in awe. Swiftly, we loaded the chartered bus again and headed to the historic home of the 19th Satsuma Lord to visit his traditional summer villa and tour his glorious garden called, Senganen or Isoteien. This site is a nationally registered scenic beauty and cultural site in Japan. We entered through an ornate and detailed gate that opened to the luscious and manicured grounds. One of the first things that caught my eye was the 150-pound iron cannon and The Tsurugane Shrine, which has more than an 800-year of history with the Shimadzu family.

Senganen is a Japanese style landscape garden, which is beautifully located at the foot of a wooded hill along the coast and uses Mt. Sakurajima as "borrowed scenery". On the grounds is the first gaslight built in Japan. It is in the form of a crane-shaped stone lantern.

This historic villa and home belonged to the Shimazu, the family that ruled Kagoshima for almost 700 years until the end of Japan's feudal age in 1868. We were taken aback as we had the opportunity to tour this historic home. It was simply decorated but was filled with exquisite artwork and ornamental furniture. The formal dining room was adorned with the sparkling Satsuma cut glass. After the tour, we were escorted to the Shuseiso (Tea House) where we participated in a traditional tea ceremony. We had freshly brewed green tea and a sweet snack.

On the Senganen premise is the famous Satsuma Kiriko~The Sengan-en Gallery. This is the moment I had been waiting for, the opportunity to purchase a piece of Satsuma cut glass. I was surprised at how much the glass weighed and how the glass glistened in the sunlight. I was equally surprised by the price of even small pieces of glass. I bit the bullet and purchased a yellow piece of Satsuma glass. I will definitely treasure this keepsake forever or at least until my Visa bill comes.

One of the main differences I noticed early on when comparing the Toyko and Kagoshima was that Tokyo was more westernized with bilingual signs, menus and maps but Kagoshima was totally Japanese. This particular change was challenging but rewarding as well.

We headed to Dolphin Port for dinner. I knew the Colonel and rice was off the list tonight. Therefore, we ate at a local restaurant (I couldn't read the name or menu). It was a type of Japanese Barbecue establishment. Basically, they brought you raw meat and you cooked it on a small heated barbecue pit located in the center of the table. The smoke rose through a vent attached from the ceiling. It brought a new meaning to the term dining out. Nevertheless, it was fun playing Chef Boyardee!

Kagoshima University and More!

Rise and shine! Breakfast included rice and seaweed. Come on, I went with the rice. We were off to visit the celebrated Kagoshima University (KU) where we toured the campus and it's historical museum. The University began in 1773 and has grown into one of Japan's largest and most prestigious universities. It is comprised of eight faculties and ten graduate schools with approximately 10,000 undergraduate students and 2,000 graduate students. There are approximately 2,300 faculty and staff members at the university. Interestingly, there are more male than female undergraduate and graduate students enrolled at KU. It is interesting to note that the academic year runs from April 1 to March 31. First semester is April 1 to September 30 and second semester is October 1-March 31.

University President Yoshida Hiroli and other dignitaries met with our delegation. Happily, we had an informal discussion with undergraduate and graduate students as well as college professors. The topic of discussion was educational trends and the teaching profession in general. It was intriguing to learn that Kagoshima University is seeking new ways to encourage practicing teachers to earn a graduate degree in education as well as ways to improve the employment rate of graduating teachers which is only 30 percent.

Following a scrumptious buffet styled lunch (rice again) at our host hotel we made a courtesy visit to Kagoshima Town Hall to hear greetings from the Deputy Mayor of Kagoshima and the Superintendent of Kagoshima City Board of Education. A few interesting facts we learned were that the crime rate is low and the cost of living is much lower than in Tokyo. It was fascinating to learn that teachers are assigned to schools for 5 to 7 year teaching terms and then they are arbitrarily transferred to another school in the Kagoshima prefecture/state. Teachers have no input into their geographical assignments. Every teacher must teach on one of the islands’ schools as well. I learned that only 30 percent of teachers in Japan are female. At the conclusion of the meeting, each official personally gave all 20 educators a business card and wished us a pleasant stay in Kagoshima. As we strolled to our bus, we passed the mailman on a bright red scooter type motorcycle. He wore a uniform, helmet and carried a mailbag. He was traveling very fast. I thought to myself, “I hope my postcards make it home!”

Ishiki Jr. High-A "Peaceful" Welcome!

I could hardly wait to pack my slippers because our first school visit was to Ishiki Junior High School (Grades 7-9). In Japan's Junior High setting-Grade 1 is 7th grade, Grade 2 is 8th grade and Grade 3 is 9th grade. I have been an elementary teacher for 15 year so I was anxious to spend the day at a Junior High School.

A VIP welcome was given to us at Ishiki Jr. High. We heard the students cheering long before we saw them. Their school band was playing as our bus approached. Over 600 students were lined up in front of the building cheering for us in English. The students eagerly gave us the "peace" hand symbol as we passed. Their school band played music and the American flag joined the Japanese flag in waving a friendly hello to us as we approached. It is a moment I will never forget. It set the tone for the entire day. As you entered the school you placed your shoes in a cubby. Then you must don your own slippers or complimentary slippers provided by the school. I had already been told I had Sumo Wrestler feet so I decided to pack my own slippers.
Here���s a little slipper etiquette. When you enter the restroom you must take off your own slippers and leave them on a platform and put on a pair of rubbery bathroom slippers. As you exit, you must remember to change back into your own slippers because walking in the hall with bathroom slippers is a big no-no!

The American delegation had a brief meeting with the principal and Student Council President. The principal explained to us about the history of the school. We then had free reign to observe classrooms. Observing the students, I noticed they were very attentive and respectful of their teachers and took great pride in their penmanship.

Much to my dismay there was only one computer lab and no computers or televisions in any classrooms. As I toured the school, I realized I had stereotyped Japanese schools. I had the opinion that they would be very modern with advanced technology. Generally, Japanese students outscore American students on standardized tests; therefore I had the misconception that the school environment must be better. What I discovered was that their buildings were older and the students had well-used equipment, desks and textbooks. In other words, it was very similar to the American public schools I have visited.

Back at the conference room, two students from each homeroom class carried a student made poster that had each of the 20 American educators names on it. We then paired up with the appropriate delegates; they escorted us to the gym for a special program. The students were eager to introduce themselves in English and practice their conversational skills with us as we strolled to the gym.

The students had practiced a special program for three weeks. The students were courteous and orderly during the program. They sat on the floor. When the teacher called attention for the program to begin, you could have heard a pin drop. The program consisted of a short skit, an archery demonstration, karate and judo exhibitions, and a speech recited in English. An out of the ordinary moment occurred for me when the school band played the Japanese National Anthem followed by The Star Spangled Banner. All the American educators rose with hand over heart and sang along. That was a spine-tingling moment for me. It is hard to explain but being thousands of miles away from home and have Japanese Junior High students��� play your National Anthem is simply a nostalgic goose bump moment.

Students swarmed around us at the end of the program and worked in cooperative teams to teach the Americans how to do origami (art of paper folding) and calligraphy. The students enjoyed being teachers and all the American educators definitely enjoyed being learners. I must admit I am better at calligraphy than folding paper. Do you know how hard it is to make a paper crane out of a small square?

Our student delegates escorted us back to their homerooms where their classmates were all eager to talk to us in English. The students had definitely practiced their conversational skills. I was impressed with their knowledge and use of the English language. It was time for lunch. But we did not head to the cafeteria. The food was brought to us. The students served themselves: soup, rice, vegetables and a sandwich. They ate at their desks and at the end of the meal they cleaned their trays, bowls and utensils. Then they went to the restroom and brushed their teeth. Recess time followed lunch. The students changed clothes and went to the playground. I was amazed that almost all of their activities took place with little "teacher supervision." It is not the school building or materials that are better, it seems to be the culture in Japan that teaches students to be responsible for the things they use and for their own actions. The education system is a different environment in Japan. One teacher stated that discipline is the parent's job and belongs at home.

To my amazement after recess students engage in a ritual known as cleaning their schools. Japanese schools do not have custodians per say. Each day students take responsibility for cleaning their school. I must add they do a pretty good job of it, too. Just imagine 600 Jr. High School students cleaning the school at the same time without any horseplay or water fights. You would have to see it to believe it!

The American and Japanese teachers had a joint teacher's meeting to discuss their pivotal role in the education system and issues. We learned from each other during the conversations and realized we have many of the same issues and commonalities. As we left Ishiki Junior High School the student body once again formed two rows and wished us a loud and clear goodbye in English and shared one last "Peace" sign.

Lady Luck and The Gambler

I could not resist the temptation of playing Pachinko even though I did not know how to play. My partner in crime Leslie agreed to go. I would play and she would watch! The Pachinko Parlor was a madhouse. There were excited people everywhere and lots of noises and bells. I grabbed a seat beside a kind Japanese lady who had five baskets of little silver balls. I figured either I would have beginners luck or Lady Luck sitting next to me would take pity on a poor American and share some of her winnings with me. Well, I was wrong she didn’t share any of her winnings. However, the kind Japanese lady did try to teach me how to play by pointing to the target where the silver balls needed to land. She even stuck one of her personal coins into the machine to help me keep my aim on target. Before I knew it I had lost 2,000 yen (don't worry that is only 20 US dollars!) My momma didn't raise a gambler. So I called it quits. Despite her kind efforts, sometimes you've got to know when to hold them and sometimes you have got to know when to fold them. I folded!

Welcome to the Real World Kagoshima!

Time certainly flies when you are having fun. I was just getting accustomed to the Tokyo lifestyle when it was time to repack my recently unpacked suitcase and journey on a 90-minute flight south to the tropical Kagoshima City.

Prepare for landing, when the airplane landed, I was smacked with the humidity and knew I had landed in a tropical paradise. The rainbow of vivid flower blossoms and tropical emerald foliage were good indicators that I was going to like this visit. It was a short ride to the hotel but it gave us a charming view of Kinko Bay and the volcano. Our tour guide Naoko Oguruma gave us tidbits of information about the city during the ride to our Hotel

I learned only in Kagoshima will you find more than 600,000 Japanese residents who call their home, "The Southern Gateway to Japan". Kagoshima City is the capital of Kagoshima Prefecture(state).

In Kagoshima will you find a city that is often compared with its Italian sister city, Naples, due to a similarly mild year round climate, palm tree lined streets, and Mt Sakurajima, Kagoshima's active volcano. Sakurajima is one of Japan's most active volcanoes and serves as the symbol of Kagoshima. The volcano smokes constantly and minor eruptions take place frequently. Sakurajima's last major eruption occurred in 1960. However, we did see steam vents rise from the volcano while we were visiting the city.

Only in Kagoshima will you find a wide variety of specialty products such as the posh Satsuma cut glass, Satsumayaki ceramics, bamboo products and stunning Pongee silk. There are many delicacies such as: Sho-chu (liquor distilled from potatoes) Satsuma-age (deep fried fish), Kuro Buta (black pork), Sakurajimia daikon (the world's largest radishes) and Shirokuma (polar bear, a shaved ice desert with fruit and cream).

Kagoshima attractions include: Tenmonkan a series of covered streets, which form a shopping arcade. It houses restaurants, bars, coffee shops, clothing stores, souvenir shops, 100 Yen stores, Pachinko Parlors, and Karaoke halls. Amu Plaza is a modern mall with seven floors, a food court and a supermarket located in the basement. It has a ten-screen movie theater and gym. Another well-liked attraction is Dolphin Port. It is a modern shopping and dining complex located on the shore of the picturesque bay, it offers a dazzling view of Sakurajimia.

A famous and controversial person from Kagoshima is Saigo Takamori. Saigo was instrumental in the peaceful overthrow of the feudal Shogunate and helped found the Meiji government however a later disagreement and rebellion against the new government led to his committing suicide in 1877. His statue can be seen near Tenmokan. The movie "The Last Samurai" starring Tom Cruise is loosely based on the life of Saigo Takamori.

Quicker than lightning, we all made a mad dash to drop off our luggage in our rooms and meet on the Public Tram Car located directly in front of our hotel. This was one of our few free evenings. I was shocked that you could ride all over the city for only $1.60. After a quick tour of the city, we hopped off at Tenmokan for a leisurely stroll through the covered streets of the shopping district. The streets are covered to prevent any damage from ash that Mt. Sakutajima shares with the city from time to time.

Lo and behold, when I turned the corner there was a friendly face from the south. Colonel Sanders-KFC. How could I turn down some extra crispy chicken? Surprisingly, the chicken did not look like extra crispy or original recipe either but at this point I ate it anyway. The only other choice was rice! Even though it wasn't finger licking good it did the trick for me.

My Best Day Yet!

Saturday was our first free day and probalby one of my most memorable days in Tokyo. I grabbed my Metro Map and handkerchief and headed to Uneo Park home of the National Tokyo Musuem.

Ueno Park is a large public park that opened in 1873. Ueno Park is famous for its many museums, especially art museums, namely the Tokyo National Museum, the Orient Museum, the National Science Museum, and many others. It has a zoological garden as well. The Tokyo National Museum us the oldest and largest musuem in Japan. The museum preserves art and archaeological objects from all of East Asia, with Japan as it's main focus.There are five exhibition galleries, a research centerm outdoor exhibits and a garden.

As a lover of Japanese art, this was a dream come true for me. I was able to learn about the features, cahracteristics and history of Japanese art chronologically. I admired art from the early Jomon period over 12,000 years ago until the fall of the Tokugawa shogunate in the late 19th century. A few of my favorite things included: a Dogu (clay figurine) from Jomon period 1000-400 B.C., a Dotaku (bell-shaped bronze) with Crossed Bands from Yayoi period, 1-3rd century, Haniwa Man /Terra-cotta Tomb ornament from Kofun period, 6th century. In addition I enjoyed viewing the impressive Zen and Ink Landscape Paintings from the Kamakura period, 14th century as well as the Tebako (decorative and luxurious cosmetic box of aristicrats) from the Heian period, 12th century. The elaborate boxes were made of mother of pearl and maki-e lacquer. There was a special section of the museum for the attire of the military elite, which included Yoroi and Gusoku style armor as well as Samurai swords from the 13th and 16th century. One of the most memorable parts of the museum was the Gallery of Horyuji Temple Treasures. These timeless Japanese treasures are from the 7th century and they included: Gilt Bronze Buddhist Statues, Gigaku Masks, Wooden, Metal and Lacquer Artifacts as well as paintings, calligraphy and textiles. I was simply in awe of the beauty and splendor of this particular gallery. I know there is an unique story behind each artifact and you could spend a lifetime imagining about the history of each one.

After that unforgettable msueum tour we shopped on Ameyoko-ocho street which is a trendy urban hip district. I even purchased a CD from a Japanese Rapper named Wise! Watch out Fifty Cents! I don't know what the rapper is saying but I like the beat.

What a whirlwind of a week in Toyko. I was literally beat but It's now time to repack and take a flight to Kagoshima for a weeklong stay in my host city that not only includes visit to public schools and a local univeristy but a homestay with a local Japanese family.

Saynora until next week with more adventures in Japan!